Pictionary

Insider Photo Term: Chimping:

2011-09-05T01:02:00.000-07:00

While this idea might conjure up the image of a primate sitting under a tree with a camera around its neck, it actually points to something less unique. In fact, it’s a common practice among beginning photographers. The term “chimping” refers to the habit of looking at the back of an LCD screen after each shot. It’s the constant ‘shoot and check’ that so many amateur photographers engage in. Professional shooters tend to shy away from this practice, as they strive to stay connected in the moment of what they’re photographing, knowing there’s time to review once the session or event is over.

If you find yourself constantly checking the back of your camera, try to shoot without checking your images until your session is over. You may find this approach can help you stay better connected to your subject and you might pick up moments you might otherwise miss.

Bokeh Basics

2011-08-06T23:18:00.000-07:00

Have you ever noticed that something about an image you’ve shot doesn’t ‘feel quite right’ but you can’t put your finger on it? It could be bad bokeh.

Bokeh is a word that is derived from the Japanese term for ‘blur’ or ‘haze’ and it refers to the portions of an image that are blurred in the background. It doesn’t refer to the blurred background itself, but rather, the particular circular light pattern created in the blur.

This concept can be somewhat subjective in that we are talking about a distinction of good blur versus bad blur. Good blur is a pleasing pattern and something that enhances the overall image whereas bad blur is distracting and takes away from the image’s impact. While the ‘bokeh ball pattern’ is often found around any point of light in an image, the overall affect will be created in all areas of background that are not in sharp focus.

Today’s technology has greatly improved bokeh when shooting but if you’d like to experiment further, try shooting in aperture priority mode and let in as much light as possible. Having small light sources in the background, such as streetlights or a car’s headlights are another way to experiment with bokeh patterns.

Understanding ISO

2011-07-06T11:21:00.000-07:00

The digital photography terrain is paved with acronyms, and one of the most important ones to understand is known as ISO. What’s interesting is that ISO isn’t an acronym, really--it was created by the International Organization for Standardization to refer to sensitivity of film to light. The term (or acronym) ISO replaced the film equivalent term ASA (American Standards Association). In the days of shooting film, you would purchase film according to its ASA, and this would indicate how sensitive the film would be to light. “Faster film” meant it was more sensitive to light; “slow film” meant less sensitivity to light.

So, how does this translate today? If we aren’t shooting film, why do we need to worry about ISO?

Well, ISO is one of the key components in creating a properly exposed image. ISO in today’s technology refers to the camera sensor’s sensitivity to light. Photographers will often bump up the ISO in situations such as low light conditions or in circumstances where shutter speed has already been decreased as much as possible. By increasing our ISO setting, we are increasing our camera sensor’s sensitivity to light. As you increase the ISO, less light is needed for the shot. Each time you double the ISO, it equates to needing only half the amount of light to create the same exposure.

One challenge of shooting at higher ISO settings is that of ‘noise.’ The term ‘noise’ refers to the stray speckles than can be created in an image. In the film equivalent, noise was referred to as film grain. You may not always notice image noise and it may not become apparent until you enlarge an image considerably, but image noise can detract from a quality image in that the photo will look more grainy and speckled. Smaller compact cameras are often more prone to image noise; some cameras can start showing evidence of noise at an ISO of 400 and above. This is due to the fact that a compact model camera’s sensor is much smaller than one used in a DSLR, and a smaller sensor means increased sensitivity at lower ISO numbers.

Some of today’s high end DSLR cameras offer ISO ranges from 100-6,400, which can then be further expanded higher due to mathematical algorithms. And some of these cameras can shoot at these high ISOs with minimal noise. If such a camera isn’t in your budget, simply practicing varying the ISO settings in different conditions is the best method for helping you understand the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and aperture.

Learning to adjust ISO in various lighting conditions is an important cornerstone in advancing your shooting skills. It’s also a great opportunity to get more comfortable with your camera’s more advanced settings.

Digital Photography Dictionary:

2011-04-06T13:32:00.000-07:00

Saturation: The term ‘saturation’ is often used to describe the richness of color(s) in an image. This term is used subjectively to categorize the depth of a particular color or colors in a photograph.

Sports Shooter Tip:

2011-02-23T10:51:00.000-08:00

When shooting a sporting event, such as your child’s soccer game, pay attention to the time of day because the position of the sun can make a substantial impact on the quality of your photos. If the game is in the early morning or evening, try to shoot with the sun on your subject’s face and front side (with the sun at your back). If it’s the middle of the day, the strong overhead sun can create unwelcome shadows so pay careful attention to how the sunlight affects your shot.

How Color Temperature Affects Your Photography

2010-10-17T20:54:00.000-07:00

Photographers will often comment on an image appearing ‘cool’ or ‘warm’ in tone, which translates into whether the photo has more of a red/yellow cast or a blue cast. It all begins with the color temperature because a lower color temperature will emit a warmer cast while a higher color temperature provides a bluish tint. It is important that you are able to gauge your available light’s temperature and adjust when needed through custom white balance settings. Color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin. For example, tungsten studio lights measure at 3,200K while a sunny day and clear sky will register at approximately 6,000K. By contrast, a heavily overcast sky reads at close to 10,000K, which explains the bluer tint to images as it is higher on the temperature scale.

The current generation of digital cameras does a pretty good job of using automatic settings for white balance, but this gets more difficult in conditions where there is less light available. If you’re in a situation where the lighting leaves something to be desired, creating a custom white balance for a particular location to be used at that time may yield far superior results.

If you only learn a few key features on your DLSR, creating a custom white balance is one that will come in handy in numerous situations. If you’re not sure how to do this, give us a call or bring your camera into the store—we’d be happy to help you. You won’t believe the difference in your photography!

Marketing Your Photo Services on Facebook

2010-10-17T20:36:00.000-07:00

If you’re a working photographer—be it part time, on the side or full time—it would be a bit behind the times to advise you to set up a Facebook page as most savvy photographers have been connected for quite some time. However, with so many large friend lists, event notifications and status updates to read, your message could easily get lost in the myriad of updates about the best barbeque in town and little Johnny’s latest accomplishment.

To make your Facebook presence more interactive, consider making posts more conversational and request responses. For example, use your status update to ask opinions about on-location ideas, holiday specials you might run and more. Asking for input allows your friends and fans to become more connected to you by keeping the dialog moving forward. It can also provide you with valuable feedback and input you’d likely otherwise miss.

If you have a blog and are actively adding ideas and other content, make sure to use the status update to link to it. However, don’t just add the link and a basic description. Make sure to create a teaser sentence such as, “Top Ten Reasons You Don’t Want Your Brother/Uncle/Friend Photographing Your Wedding.” Your title needs to be compelling enough to compete with the litany of other updates being posted.

Facebook is one of the most effective –and free—ways to get the word out about your services, specials and promotions. Approaching it with some quality content and a sense of humor can help your business get noticed as well as earn new ‘friends’ through referrals.

Protecting Your Images in Online Auctions:

2010-09-09T16:57:00.000-07:00

For those who use photography as a tool to sell products on Ebay and Bonanzle, you know that accurate, high-quality photographs are key to a successful transaction. Unfortunately, countless sellers have had their images stolen and then used by other sellers to represent a similar product. In addition, eBay’s policy of compiling all images used by eBay sellers as ‘stock images’ to be accessed by other sellers only complicates things. Most sellers don’t even know of the policy change; you have to specifically opt-out of the program, and due to another policy change in July stemming from concern over this policy, eBay will now notify you if your image is being used. Sidenote: To opt-out of the program, follow the instructions here:

http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/sharing-content.html

So, if you want to protect your images from being used by others without your consent, make sure to watermark them. It’s best to have the watermark cover part of a critical area of the image; if you add it to the bottom or top, it can be easily cropped out. Most image editing programs have this function. Watermarking your images is one way to make sure they are protected from unauthorized use.

Creating high quality images for your eBay auctions is a snap with our SystemPro Light Tent. You’ll get even lighting on your small to medium sized objects, and experts agree that quality photographs lead to more bids!

Giving Your Photos a Vintage Feel

2010-08-04T11:25:00.001-07:00

Sometimes an image creates a far more powerful response when it has been converted to black and white or edited to create a vintage effect. If you’d like to experiment with this technique, all you need is an image editing program. Many of today’s options have a variety of tools for creating this effect.

In addition to converting an image to black and white, you can also choose the sepia option, which will add more of a yellowish-brown cast to the image. You can also experiment with the midtones of the image to soften the contrast in the photograph. The vignette tool is very popular for adding a vintage feel because it creates a softening effect and gradually takes the image to shades of white around the edges. Other tools such as dodge, burn and sponge can also help you ‘antique’ an existing photograph.

Aquatic Photography Definition:

2010-07-21T14:03:00.000-07:00

Backscatter: While the term sounds like a skittish fish making a run for shelter in a nearby reef, the term ‘backscatter’ refers to the small white dots that sometimes show up on underwater images as a result of the flash lighting up a floating particulate or minute item on the subject or in the background. This issue can be particularly troublesome if your flash is very close to your lens (such as shooting with a compact camera). In order to minimize backscatter, position your strobe further away from the lens and reposition it at a 45 degree angle above the subject. If you still find backscatter appearing on your images, using an image editing program to remove it may be your best post-processing option.

Forensic Photography Fact:

2010-06-03T11:30:00.000-07:00

Did you know that the current method of forensic (crime scene) photography evolved from a mug shot? Alphonse Bertillon was the first person to document a crime scene using a camera. He originally photographed suspected criminals—creating mug shots—and then evolved his ideas to include shooting entire crime scenes. He shot images from various angles and positions and included photos of key objects and evidence in an investigation. His specific methodology was the catalyst for major changes in the crime solving field.

Shooting Signs:

2010-06-03T10:43:00.000-07:00

Whether you’ve just taken a day trip to a nearby town or have traveled across the ocean for an elaborate summer adventure, make sure to photograph some of the signs that you see along your journey. Many designs are unique and interesting but these subjects are too often overlooked in our own travel photography. For example, signs displaying a command or concept in multiple languages can add a fun perspective to your other vacation photos. You may also come across some hilarious warnings such as “Lost” with an arrow pointing left (yes, these do exist!). Pay closer attention to the signs you pass, and you’ll realize just how many are worth a second look.

Underwater Photography Concept:

2010-06-03T09:29:00.000-07:00

Absorption: When shooting images underwater, selective color absorption will occur, which means that colors will slowly disappear, leaving the entire spectrum of color unavailable to be photographed without an alternative light source. The depth at which this occurs will depend upon a number of factors including direct sunlight and whether the diver is in fresh or salt water. The properties of water will impact color with the red tones being the first to disappear underwater, which usually occurs within a few feet of depth. Orange tones followed by yellow tones are the next to go, leaving green and blue tones remaining (at a 30-60 foot range as an estimate). A powerful strobe light will help restore some of these tones and return some color vibrancy to your subjects. Just remember that you will need to make adjustments as you vary in depth during diving; what works at 20 feet won’t yield the same results as when you’re shooting down at 60 feet.

Tips for Keeping Your Subjects' Eyes Open

2010-05-04T12:54:00.000-07:00

It’s bound to happen when you have a number of kids to photograph—someone’s going to have her eyes closed and you’ll be left with a picture that’s almost perfect. This is a common dilemma that challenges amateur and professional photographers alike, but we’ve got a couple of tips to help you overcome this obstacle.

Early or Later: Sometimes the bright afternoon sun is a guarantee that your subjects are going to end up squinting and squirming. If at all possible, choose an earlier part of the morning before the sun is strong or late afternoon just before sunset. The natural light may be softer and kinder for both your photography and your subjects.

Count to Three: Have your subjects keep their eyes closed and tell them to open them wide when you reach the number ‘three.’ Eyes will open wide and you’ll have the timing set to shoot at that moment. This trick has saved many from the squinty eye syndrome!

Look Elsewhere: There’s no and hard and fast rule that states your subjects have to look squarely at the camera. Let those you’re photographing relax a bit and interact with one another. The most touching image may be one that shows a natural connection rather than a standard head-on pose with forced smiles. Some pros often have the subjects tell one another jokes or a funny story and then they start shooting when the laughter begins.

Posing Techniques for Beginners

2010-05-04T12:43:00.000-07:00

If you’re itching to expand your skill set when it comes to photographing people, consider experimenting with a few posing techniques guaranteed to take you past the ordinary head-on group photo. Try a tip or two from our toolbox to transform your photos into images that speak volumes.

Comfort is Key: Being photographed is often an uncomfortable experience for people so it’s important to put them at ease in order for their true smiles to surface. Let them settle in for a moment or two before getting down to business and add a bit of extra space between your subject and the camera in the beginning of the session.

Take a Turn: When shooting a solo portrait, have your subject turn her body at an angle away from the camera but keep her looking toward the camera; this common posing technique is popular because it adds dimension to a portrait while not straying too far out of a subject’s comfort zone.

If It Bends, Bend It: Attend a workshop for budding professional photographers and you’ll hear this popular posing tip. Look at your subject and start adjusting elbows, knees and wrists. Stiff arms can project formality and awkwardness, so double-check your subject’s joints when posing!

Shoot in Series: This technique is particularly important when it comes to photographing small children or interaction between subjects. Set your camera in burst mode and continue shooting as your subject smiles, looks around and laughs. Not only is it likely that you’ll get one great image, you may get several that will result in a fantastically playful photo composite.

Spring in Bloom: Wildflower Photographer

2010-05-04T12:29:00.000-07:00

May is the perfect time for taking pictures of wildflowers and nature in full bloom. The rains of April have quenched the lands and helped create the beauty you now wish to capture.

Evaluate the Angles: Don’t rush to shoot the first pretty flower that strikes your fancy. Study it from a variety of angles and evaluate your options looking through your lens. Move about, experiment with top shots, side views, low points and off-center options. The beauty of wildflowers is multifaceted, and your location and vantage point can illustrate those variances.
Clue in on Contrasts: Look for contrasts in color and texture when surveying your wildflower patch. For example, see if you can incorporate both the bright purple blooms with a nearby yellow bud, or include a smooth petal with a textured leaf. You may need to experiment with angles and positioning to include contrast but the end result will be well worth the effort!
Don’t Overdo It: When presented with a large field of flowers, it’s tempting to shoot a broad image to try to encompass the entire area but these images often fall short of showing the appropriate scale. Feel free to take a few in this manner but then start focusing on a key flower or bloom and experiment with your depth of field to see if you can also include part of the vast floral background.
Wind and Light: Some flowers need the warmth of the sun to open, so consider shooting in the morning hours. Wind can also be an obstacle in getting great wildflower photos, so the mornings are often better as wind tends to pick up later in the day. If bright sunlight or reflections are becoming an issue, consider using a skylight or UV filter to combat the harshness of the sun. We have a variety of specialty filters to consider: www.fortworthcamera.com/filters

Watch it on the Roadside: Our nation’s highways are bringing us some of the most fantastic wildflower eye candy this season. For example, in Texas, IH-10 seems to be paved with bluebonnets for miles on end. These attractions lure countless admirers to pull over to take photographs, but please take extra care when doing this. Survey your area to find a safe spot to park and make sure you’re shooting far enough away from traffic so as not to be a distraction or cause an accident.

Macro Photo Tip

2010-05-04T12:25:00.000-07:00

Macro Photo Tip: Shooting close-up images, often referred to as macro photography, is popular with those who love to photograph flowers, insects and nature. Technically, macro photography is categorized as a subject shot at 1x or greater magnification. If you want to experiment with macro photography but don’t have a macro lens, consider using an extension tube. Extension tubes are designed to enable a lens to focus closer than its normal minimum focusing distance. They are exceptionally useful for macro photography, enabling you to convert almost any lens into a macro lens at a fraction of the cost while maintaining its original optical quality. Learn more about our options here: http://tinyurl.com/y7cbql9

Perspective:

2010-04-06T11:11:00.000-07:00

Perspective: The term ‘perspective’ is used to describe the spatial relationship between objects in the frame. There are a number of ways you can play with perspective including adjusting the height and distance from where you are in relation to your primary subject. For example, to show the grandeur of a tall building, consider forgoing the standard ‘head on’ shot and take the photograph closer to the structure and shoot upward.

Making School Projects Fun:

2010-02-26T12:53:00.001-08:00

If your kids need to create a school project for a fair or class event, how about choosing one involving photography? Here’s a favorite—creating a pinhole camera! In this age of digital technology, showing a child how to create a pinhole camera can help deepen a child’s interest in photography by allowing the experience of being involved in all aspects of the process. Who knows? You may encourage a life-long interest in photography from this one fun but simple experiment.

Is the Future of Photography EVIL?

2010-02-26T12:45:00.000-08:00

Don’t worry, we aren’t talking Dark Forces here…it’s just a new camera category that some think are going to open up our options even more! EVIL stands for Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens. This new breed of camera is more compact than a DSLR and is a mirrorless and finderless version that still allows for interchangeable lenses. This new category is being considered by some as a great alternative for those who need to better blend in to the background such as war reporters, detectives and other professionals not wanting to call attention to themselves due to the equipment they carry. These cameras are still a bit pricey and are a new category but they are certainly something to watch in the future.

Your Camera Can Provide Insurance:

2010-02-26T12:39:00.000-08:00

We often take pictures of family gatherings, loved ones and special events, but did you know that your digital camera can actually provide financial protection? Insurance agencies remind us that it is extremely important to photograph any items of value to protect that investment against loss, theft or damage. Countless people each year find they receive less money back than the value of the items lost because they were unable to provide proof of ownership. If you have heirloom jewelry, electronics, artwork, designer items, specialty tools or anything else of value, take the time to photograph those items and document the value. For additional security, burn a CD of the images, print a set of the photographs and place both in a secure location such as a safety deposit box or fireproof safe. If possible, keep the files in a secure location away from your home where the items are kept. And when it comes to digital media, make sure to use the highest quality CDs designed specifically for long-term photo storage: http://www.promaster.com/CDR

Composition Concept: Patterns

2010-02-26T12:32:00.001-08:00

There are numerous patterns in your surroundings; it’s simply a matter of fine-tuning your attention to uncover them. Capturing interesting patterns, whether they reside on the side of a building or in a stone walkway, can result in artistically appealing photographs that help you stretch your skills. Experiment by filling the frame in numerous ways to see how to best capture the pattern you’ve identified; you may find yourself looking for hidden repetitions everywhere you turn!

Histogram:

2010-02-09T10:50:00.000-08:00

Ever wonder what that black and white graph is that sometimes shows up on your camera’s LCD screen? It’s called a histogram, and it’s essentially a representation of the contrast and dynamic range in each image. The histogram shows a range of 0-255 with the value of zero being black and white valued at 255. You’ll find the ‘true white’ illustrated at the far right of the graph and the ‘true black’ on the far left. A well-exposed image will show points close to both ends.

Tips for People Who Hate Photo Editing

2010-02-04T12:17:00.001-08:00

Digital photography technology has given us so many great new tools with which to experiment and improve our images. Image editing software allows us to correct blemishes, add special effects and color correct images to our heart’s content. However, when it comes to image editing and correction, it can often become a crutch that actually ends up taking MORE time overall, and time seems to be our most scarce resource these days. Managing your total time invested in an image is particularly important if you make a living as a photographer. Even if you just love snapping shots on the weekends, a little bit of preparation on the front end can ensure you get great shots that require very little, if any, post processing.

Incident Light Meters are Still Immensely Useful:

2010-02-04T12:15:00.000-08:00

Some photographers believe that shooting digital means no longer using an incident light meter for outdoor portraits, but these handy devices are more useful than ever before. Today’s in-camera light meters are quite good but can still record true white and true black subjects as gray due to the fact that they are metering reflected light as opposed to the actual light hitting your subject. If you’d like to learn more about incident light meters, drop by the store and we’d be glad to demonstrate their benefits.

Benefits of Custom White Balance:

2010-02-04T12:14:00.000-08:00

A custom white balance can save all kinds of post-processing time and the CWB is particularly useful this time of year when many of us are shooting winter snow scenes. If the sun is bright, a CWB will come in very handy in making sure your snow doesn’t have a blue cast. You may wish to lower your exposure value (EV) since your primary subject (snow) will be lighter than your background.

These techniques are also beneficial to those who prefer not to become masters of an image editing program. Become a master of your camera technique instead.

Is it Better to Be Overexposed or Underexposed?

2010-02-04T11:52:00.000-08:00

When it comes to your digital images, it is usually better—if given the choice—to underexpose and image rather than overexpose it. This is one area where an image editing program can really help you in a pinch as they have tools to help pull detail from the darker shadow areas. If an image is overexposed, or ‘blown out,’ there will likely be very little detail that can be salvaged. We believe this same advice applies to celebrities…underexposure is definitely better.

Benefits of a UV Filter:

2010-02-04T11:48:00.000-08:00

Did you know that ultraviolet rays can have an impact on your images? These rays can make your images appear hazy or blurred. Our Promaster Digital HGX UV filter is a multipurpose fine-weather filter for color as well as black and white photography. The exclusive PROMASTER REPELLAMAX element resistant coating repels moisture, fingerprints, dust, dirt, and grime to ensure the sharpest image possible. As an additional bonus, this filter can double as a lens protector! Learn more about this quality UV filter here:

FWC:Filters

Sports Photography Tip:

2010-02-04T11:44:00.000-08:00

When it comes to photographing winter sports, it’s often the athlete’s expressions that pull us into the shot. Next time you’re shooting a sporting event, think about the best position to occupy that would allow you to capture your subject’s expression during key moments. Try to spend a few minutes before the event starts to scout a location that will let you capture the exhilaration of the athlete as well as the action.

Camera Batteries in Cold Weather:

2009-12-28T12:05:00.000-08:00

Shooting in extremely cold weather can be tough on your camera. Did you know that cold batteries don’t work as well as warm ones? In fact, they a cold battery actually mimic a dead one when exposed to extremely frigid temperatures. Keep an extra set of batteries inside a warm jacket pocket (some people tuck them inside a sock in their camera bags!) and change the batteries out half-way through a shoot or event to make sure your camera is ready when the action hits.

Pose Like the Pros

2009-12-04T10:39:00.000-08:00

Have you ever looked at a family photo and thought that it just looked “off” for some reason? The picture is okay but nothing particularly special. The issue may be in how the people are posed. Professional photographers are masters of posing their subjects; they understand the importance of the right positioning and angles. This holiday season, you can get great family photos by using these posing tips:

Scout Your Location: Take a mental count of how many subjects you’ll have in your photograph. If it’s a particularly large group, you’ll want to make sure that there is a location capable of fitting everyone comfortably, so choose this area well in advance.

Chairs and Other Props: If you have elderly members in the group, make sure you have chairs for them to sit comfortably in. You may wish to put them in the center of the photograph and have young children sit on the floor in front of them. Adult family members can then stand or kneel around the grandparents, who will serve as the ‘anchor center’ in the photograph.

Balance Your Subjects: Take a quick inventory of who will be in the photograph and make sure that the tallest members are in the back and that you can position others in a slightly staggered manner so that one person’s head isn’t hidden behind another. Grab a pen and paper and write down each person’s name. You can use this as a cheat sheet to create a posing chart in advance. When your subjects are ready, you’ll have a plan and can get the photo posed and shot quickly, which is important when small children are involved!

Include Yourself! Remember that to leave a space for yourself in the photograph. Just make sure you remember how to set the timer on your camera before getting everyone else posed and ready!

Aperture:

2009-11-02T13:52:00.000-08:00

A camera lens’ opening, called its aperture, can be adjusted to let in less light or more light depending on the circumstances.

The size of a camera’s lens opening at any particular time is called the f/stop. As the numbers get larger, the opening gets smaller (confusing, but still true). So, smaller number= more light coming in, larger number = less light coming in through the lens.

Depth of Field:

2009-11-02T13:48:00.000-08:00

The term ‘Depth of Field’ refers to the area of a scene that appears sharp in a photograph. There are three things that can affect the depth of field in a photograph: the distance between the camera and the primary subject, the aperture (or f/stop) and the focal length of the lens being used.

Photographing Fall in Full

2009-11-02T13:15:00.000-08:00

Fall is fantastic for so many reasons. The trees drip with rich colors resembling garnet and amber jewels, the cool air whisks away the remains of a hot summer and the air is filled with anticipation for family-filled holidays. If you’d like to take some of fall’s finest moments and tuck them away to enjoy once the snow falls and the trees leaves fade away, here are a few tips:

Shoot Early or Late: Consider shooting during sunrise and sunset hours for the best lighting opportunities. These times afford the best lighting to help you capture the richness of color around you.

Overcast is Okay: Overcast days offer some of the most wonderful lighting so, if it’s a cloudy day, consider snapping away. The absence of harsh sunlight will allow the subject’s colors to retain its richness.

Stay Simple: Part of the beauty of fall can be captured in its simplicity. Zoom in close and focus on the beauty of a single leaf or a small cluster of them. Spend a few minutes surveying your surroundings to find the perfect subject. It may be something completely unexpected, such as an unassuming park bench or a solitary bird.

Consider Contrast: The rainbow of colors fall provides is even more gorgeous when coupled with contrast. A ruby leaf paired with green grass can create a more powerful image than either item photographed alone.

Shoot a Grand Scale: Large trees are just fascinating, aren’t they? The trouble is that their grandeur is often difficult to capture with a standard head-on shot. Consider standing close to the base and shooting upward to better encompass the amazing expanse of the tree base and its branches. A colorful umbrella of foliage is an interesting and aesthetically pleasing way to show fall at its finest.

Monitor Calibration:

2009-10-07T17:42:00.000-07:00

Adjusting the color rendition settings of a computer’s monitor to match selected colors of a printed photograph or material.

Choosing the Right Flash

2009-10-07T12:14:00.000-07:00

A flash can be one of the most important accessories you own and, when used properly, gives your shots a more professional appearance. Here are a few things to consider when choosing the right flash for your DSLR:

Rotation: A flash that attaches to your camera’s hot shoe needs the ability to rotate and tilt. For example, tilting your flash at an upward angle behind your subject will allow you to ‘bounce the flash’ for a softer lighting effect. A fixed flash can greatly hinder your ability to creatively light your subjects and scenes.

Bracket Your Flash: It’s most common to mount your camera’s flash in the hot shoe but you may want to consider using a bracket. These portable metal mounts allow you to attach your flash higher above your camera. Some brackets allow a variety of positioning options which mean the flash can be attached above or to the side of the camera. Having this option means you can remain mobile and adjust your flash to each situation throughout an event.

Recycle: Your flash’s recycling time can be very important, especially if you’re shooting an occasion where you need to keep moving in the action. Recycle times on these flash units are quite quick but the recycle time slows as the flash’s batteries drain. A faster recycle time might buy you more time as your batteries deplete from use; you may also want to keep extra batteries on hand if this is a concern.

Let us help you find the best flash for your needs. With the holidays coming quickly upon us, the right flash and another accessory or two can be all that you need to make sure you’re ready to capture every amazing moment that comes your way.

Using Light to Your Advantage:

2009-10-07T10:23:00.001-07:00

Did you know that which direction the light comes from can impact how your subject looks in your photograph? For example, harsh light—which is direct sunlight shining on your subject’s face—can flatten how your subject looks and often cause squinting. Overhead light can cause shadows on the face of your subject, so using your flash as a ‘fill flash’ can keep dark under-eye circles at bay. Light coming from one side can allow you to be more dramatic, showing strong light on one side of the face with the other side fading into darkness. Take a few minutes to consider where your available light is directed and how you can use it to your advantage.

Should You Shoot RAW?

2009-10-01T10:27:00.000-07:00

If you’ve ever wanted to experiment with your image editing tools in greater depth, shooting some images in RAW format may be the best choice for this task. This isn’t something that most people will do as a standard practice as these files take up much more space since they are uncompressed. However, there are instances where RAW files can yield greater flexibility and artistic expansion than working with standard JPEG images. Some refer to RAW files as digital negatives because, while they aren’t considered the final image, all the data you need is contained in the file to create the final image and make adjustments to achieve the desired result.

One of the most common benefits of shooting RAW files is the flexibility one has in adjusting exposure and white balance in the image. You can adjust hue, saturation and other elements with greater latitude. In addition, shooting RAW files allows you to circumvent the adjustments the camera makes to the image such as noise reduction, sharpening and file compression.

There are also a few drawbacks to consider. RAW file formats are proprietary based upon the camera manufacturer and come with manufacturer-specific software that converts the RAW files into standard RGB files (meaning that these files aren’t easily read by various software programs). These files also take longer to write since they can be anywhere from 2-5 times the size of the JPEG equivalent, so this results in being able to shoot fewer photos in fast succession. RAW files also require additional steps in the editing process.

Shooting in RAW format is yet another way to explore and expand your photographic editing skills. Just remember to return to your standard settings when your session is through or else your digital media card will fill before you know it! And if you’re looking for high quality, high capacity media cards, we have a variety here:

http://www.promaster.com/memory

An Intro to HDR

2009-08-28T12:54:00.000-07:00

An Introduction to High Dynamic Range Photography

High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography is becoming increasingly popular now that digital cameras are the norm. The technique itself, however, was actually created by Charles Wyckoff in the 1930s. HDR refers to a technique that allows an image to display a greater dynamic range between the lightest and darkest areas of the photograph. The intention is to accurately portray the entire range of luminance and do so through a series of bracketed exposures of the same scene so that the result is a stunning display of lighting range.

Many of today’s DSLR cameras have an Auto Exposure Bracketing feature, which will come in handy as you begin experimenting with this technique. The exposure bracketing is simply a way of varying the brightness of the exposure over several sequential frames. Most cameras offer a series of at least three frames while others offer upwards of eleven or more. If you aren’t sure how to set the AEB feature on your camera, check the manual or do an online search for your camera model +AEB. The result should pop up.

You will then need to select your exposure values, which indicate the variance in shutter speed and aperture combinations used to create each image. For maximum effect, choose one complete stop so that you will get a broad range of highlights, shadows and midtones. You’ll also want to set your camera in continuous shooting mode and use the timer.

It’s best to use a tripod for this technique in order to ensure there is no movement between shots as you will be combining multiple images in an editing program later. We have a number of high quality options for you to consider here: http://www.promaster.com/products/tripods

Once you’ve finished shooting, you should have a series of images that are underexposed, properly exposed and overexposed. You will then import these images into an image editing program such as Photoshop®, Photomatix or FDR Tools (the latter two being programs specifically designed for creating HDR images).

HDR photography is a fantastic way to play with the more artistic aspects of the craft and allow you to create an image with such variance that it truly stands out among the rest of the images in your portfolio. You may find yourself answering the question, “How did you DO that?” over and over again.

Organizing Your Summer Shots:

2009-08-19T22:23:00.000-07:00

So, you’ve been taking pictures with reckless abandon this summer. Good for you! This strategy is sometimes necessary, such as in sports photography, to get that perfect picture. Once you’ve got the images you want, it’s time to spend a few minutes ruthlessly deleting pictures you don’t love. Yes, you heard right…be ruthless! You don’t need six family shots all posed the same way (unless you plan on combining the images in Photoshop later). Find the best one in each scenario and delete the rest. Think of this strategy as cutting the clutter for your computer. It will be easier to find your favorite photos if they aren’t surrounded by mediocre shots, and your hard drive will have more room to store those pictures that really do take your breath away.

Post-processing:

2009-07-28T15:28:00.000-07:00

When you hear a photographer say, “Don’t worry about it. I’ll fix it during post-processing,” this refers to the image correction and editing that will take place after the photo has been downloaded to the computer. The editing can be as simple as correcting red-eye or more sophisticated such as removing unwanted objects from the background.

Rim Lighting:

2009-07-24T00:48:00.000-07:00

The term ‘rim lighting’ is actually the same as ‘backlighting,’ which is a technique for lighting a subject from behind and often used for portrait profile shots. The main light is placed behind the subject so that the facial features are highlighted.

Burst Mode:

2009-07-23T00:37:00.000-07:00

This feature, common in today’s digital cameras, allows you take more pictures in faster succession, which is particularly useful in fast-action situations such as sporting events.

Shutter Lag:

2009-07-22T00:34:00.000-07:00

Shutter Lag is the time between pushing the button on your digital camera and when the actual image is recorded. It is also known for inciting colorful language when a shot is missed due to shutter lag. Try this tip: frame your shot and push the button down half-way before snapping the photo. This will cause the camera to focus, prep the flash and prepare to take the picture. The delay will be minimized, allowing you a better shot at the perfect shot!

Ambient Light:

2009-07-21T12:26:00.000-07:00

Ambient light is also known as available light, which refers to the light currently illuminating an object or room. It is often natural and unidirectional light and usually doesn’t highlight any one item or object in a space.